---

Swords
Swords are often viewed as the heavy, clumsy products of a crude, unsophisticated culture- a view fostered by Hollywood movies and uneducated writers of fiction.  A more appropriate view of Medieval swords is that they are the highly evolved and sophisticated product of over two thousand years of nearly continual development. 

Typically medieval swords are relatively light, fast and superbly balanced for their intended use. 
When I decided to make swords I wanted to do it right- to emulate the designs and engineering principles of actual medieval swords, but using modern materials and manufacturing methods.  I use 5160 spring steel for blades and use the services of a professional aerospace heat-treatment facility for swords.  Through a process called Marquenching they produce an extremely fine and uniform crystalline structure that offers exceptional strength and edge retention.  I have two specifications for heat-treatment- either a homogeneous temper to HRc52-53 or a Differential Temper with the edge at HRc58-60 and the spine and tang of the blade selectively drawn back to HRc45-48.  The first level; of temper is a good compromise temper for swords, offering good edge retention, flexibility and shock resistance.  The second method offers exceptional edge retention while maintaining the needed qualities of shock resistance and flexibility.  The method used to achieve this differential temper (and for that matter how I make swords) is detailed here.  I  also adhere to the belief (which seems to have been shared by Medieval sword-makers) that a tool shouldn't hurt to use so my swords are Harmonically Balanced- an sword-makers term that simply means the sword doesn't transmit shock to the handle.  Swords are all tested before shipping to insure that this quality is present- blades are also subjected to a flex-test where the center of the blade is pinned against the table with my hand and I must be able to flex the blade enough that the handle achieves a 45 degree angle relative to the table and returns to true.  There have been a few swords that are simply too rigid for me to apply this test of course, but those are the exception rather than the rule.  The hilts are carefully constructed to be solid and durable, with furniture of brass, bronze or mild steel.  Guards are carefully fitted, with the base of the blade slightly counter-sunk into the guard.   Pommels are typically slotted where the base fits over the tang to limit or eliminate the tendency to shift or rotate, then a reduced section of the tang is passed entirely through the pommel.  The pommel may be secured by a butt-rivet over the pommel or a small shaped block (called a nut) or may be threaded and pass into a 3/8 inch diameter/1/2 inch deep counter-sunk hole in the pommel to be secured by a cylindrical nut so that the hilt is dismountable allowing for easier repair, modification or cleaning.  Handles may be of exotic hardwoods such as desert Ironwood, Cocobolo, Ebony or other woods, or may be hardwood wrapped in either lacquered linen cord, leather or both.  Carving is available on exotic hardwood hilts, typically either Celtic Knotwork or Anglo-Saxon or Norse decorative motifs.  All swords are provided with leather 'scabbards.'  I have the capability to make a variety of wooden scabbards, but frankly a specialty scabbard maker can do a better job for less money so I usually advise people wanting this type of scabbard to seek their services. 

I will make swords to custom order and will consider customer designs, but always with the caveat that I will not make something the doesn't work as a sword ought to.  In addition to Medieval European swords I also make Fantasy designs and Tactical swords- but these always adhere to sound design principles and work as they
 should!  My swords are all usable, and and many do hard service as theatrical or fencing blades.  You can get a better idea of the full range of my work by looking in the Archives.
Sword Archives

Even if one restricts one's self to straight double edged blades there is a bewhildering variety of sizes, types and configurations of the medieval European sword.  I would recommend procuring a copy of Ewart Oakeshott's 'Records of the Medieval Sword,' available in softcover from Barnes and Noble for around $40 USD for an overview of the straight sword in medieval Eurpoe.  For purposes of clarity I have defined a few of the basic types below from both the Middle Ages and the Renaissance- note that these are modern definitions and do not necessarily correspond exactly to period usage and that definitions in period use often changed over time:

Single-Hand Sword (also referred to as an Arming Sword)- fairly self-explanetory- these swords usually have shorter blades (28-36 inches) with a handle configured so that it may be gripped only with one hand.  Typically these swords weigh between 1lb12oz and 3 pounds.

Bastardsword or Hand-and-a-Half Sword- These are swords designed primarily for use with a single hand, but with a hilt long enough that a second hand may be usefully employed; often by gripping the hilt around the pommel.  Typically these swords weigh 2-1/4 to 3-1/2 pounds and have blades between 30-40 inches long.

Longsword-  A Longsword (Langenschweard) is a relatively light sword intended to be used with both hands, but usually retaining some usefullness when used one-handed.  These swords typically had blades ranging from 34-40 inches and a long enough handle to easily accomodate two hands.  Weight was anywhere from 2-1/2-4 pounds.

Great Sword (Gran Espee De Guerre)- This type of sword seems to have made it's first appearance in the 12-13th century and describes a broad, relatively heavy type of sword that could really only be effectively used with both hands- possibly this was a response to the increased use of and better quality of protective armors like mail.  Blades could range from 32-45 inches or even larger, and weighed anywhere from 3-5 pounds.

Two-Handed Sword- These swords were for the most part a creature of the Renaissance rather than the Middle Ages.  They featured very long blades and hilts- 38-50 inch blades with 16-22 inches of handle and weighing 4-1/2 to 8 pounds.  Guards were exceptionally broad, often very elaborate and these swords usually feature a long un-sharpened ricasso.  Spikes or 'flukes' often protrude from the blade at the top of the ricasso to protect the hand when the ricasso was gripped for leverage.  Despite their relative heaviness these swords had long enough hilts to provide excellent leverage and were surprisingly fast in use.

Estock or Tuck-  These were thick, exceptionally rigid stabbing blades of a variety od sizes and configurations developed in the 15th century to deal with opponents in plate armor.  Often squear or triangular in cross section, they typically had no usefull cutting edge.  They mcould be made and hilted as any of the types listed above.  In the Renaissance this term came to be applied to a variety of (mostly German) rapiers with triangular blades and no cutting edge.

Rapier, Espada Ropiera or Robe Sword-  These swords as the name indicates were intended to be worn with civilian clothes as a personal defense weapon.  Blades could be broad, flat hewing blades but most often were long, slender cut-and-thrust types.  Typically rapier blades were 40-44 inches though many examples both longer or shorter exsist.  Contrary to popular belief these swords tend to actually be heavier than what we now call broadswords, usually weighing 2-1/2 to 3-1/2 pounds.  While capable of cutting the use of the point is emphasized in surviving instructional manuals.